Of People and Places

Sunrise at Manuabhan Tekri, Bhopal,Watercolor sketch  It's a beautiful view of Bhopal from Manuabhan Tekri. I sketch the sunrise and the electricity wires look like the strings of a guitar :) Have you ever been here? 

Gautami Putra Vihara, Pandavleni Caves, Nasik  If you ever go to Nasik, don't miss the Pandavleni Caves. It is a beautiful complex of about 24 caves carved into the Trirashmi hills. There is a lovely view of Nashik town from the top and since we had visited in the monsoons, a pleasant drizzle made the panorama a visual treat. These rock cut caves used to serve as monasteries for Buddhist monks. The sketch I have made is of a relief sculpture found in Cave no.3  (Gautamiputra Vihara)  It was pitch dark in there and  our old friends the bats made their presence felt. When I turned on my torch to have a better look, I was astounded by the scale of the sculptures. This one in particular, seemed to loom from above, and I was really spellbound by the planning of the architects of those times. Speaking of which, you must visit Ajanta and Ellora caves at least once in your lifetime! Visiting these places makes me feel really humbled by what they were able to achieve...

The air is filled with loud croaks, guttural cries and  I run out to the balcony to see who it is. The drains near grandma's house are overflowing because of the rains and the small plot of land in front of the house has turned into a marshland. The small puddles have broken their banks and turned into a stream. In this, I spy two sleek birds in tuxedos, their white face and underbelly shining in the gray-black rounded form of their heads. Their tails jerking up and down they plant their large feet firmly and poke through the water for insects. I go downstairs to take a closer look, but alas! I frighten them away. They run pretty fast and always keep a safe distance from me. One of them runs to the far end of the road and disappears around the corner. The other one flies to a nearby bush and keeps mum. I wait patiently for a while, give up and turn to go back into the house, when a loud racket ensues from the bush. I stand on my toes to take a peek. Apparently, the bird has th...

July 7, 2019 Today Japan celebrates the Star festival or Tanabata. In all civilizations,  folk stories and legends are a kind of truth shrouded in myth making and fantasy. So it is, with the story of Tanabata. It marks the summer triangle - the time of the year when the stars Vega and Altair are visible close to each other. This day marks the time when they reach the highest point in the sky, at around midnight.  The Star Deneb completes the triangle by connecting Altair and Vega. All three are the brightest stars in their constellations.Now coming  to the story that makes this scientific fact more easy and fun to digest  - The King of the sky had a beautiful daughter, Princess Orihime who was an accomplished weaver. She worked on her loom without respite and wove beautiful clothes that her father loved, working away in their abode close to the celestial river, the milky way. Sensing her loneliness, the king of the sky arranged for his daugh...

Most of my memories of places are tangled with memories of some lip smacking food, so much so, that if I think of a place, the image of food swims tantalizingly before my eyes. So it is with Kundapura. And Prawn ghee roast. The beautiful land of Kundapura is an hour away from Manipal by bus.  I was on my way to the Namma Bhoomi campus close to Kundapura town. It is a residential school for children and it is uniquely designed with local resources and more importantly, by asking the children what they want the space to look like. The children here elect their own Makkala Panchayat and have a say in all matters. I think that’s a wonderful step towards making them responsible without too much steering from grown ups. I reach Kundapura, a withered shell of what I had once been, wilting in the coastal sun and heat, glad to be out of the crowded bus.  I ask a passer-by the way to Shetty Lunch home and he shows me the way. It is close to the bus stop. It is a little after...

We stayed at the Kulgi Nature camp in Dandeli for a little holiday. It's a lovely place to relax and catch up with some sketching. It's really quiet and the calm embraces your flighty soul and tethers it down for a while. We missed a black panther, the staff and tourists tell us. A pity. I would have loved to see that sleek, gorgeous animal.  I find black panthers so mesmerizing. The tourist consoles me with a picture. This is hornbill territory and I was lucky enough to see one right near our hut. But this was a Malabar Pied Hornbill, not the great Pied Hornbill for which Dandeli is famous. The next day, we joined ranks of tourists in the wee hours of the morning, patiently awaiting our turn for the safari. We spotted some barking deer,  A family of Bisons ( Gaur)  that looked angry and ready to charge, the heftiest one's muscles rippling. I am imagining what it must be like to meet him head on and it's not a pleasant thought! There was a lovely little pon...

Goa diary : 16 August 2016 South Goa is for the traveller. Let the tourist be content with North Goa and all the touristy things it has to offer. We went to the fine white beach of Colva in South Goa in the monsoons. The sky was overcast, men stood in a haphazard line, in shorts and raincoats, funny because some of them were going to wade into the sea anyway to draw the fishing net! The boats drew closer and the men came alive. They brought in the fishing net tangled with seaweed, bits of shells and of course fish. Fishes gasped for air, swishing their tails, and all at once it seemed like the entire beach was filled with them, shining like pieces of tinsel here and there, jumping out of the nets. The stray dogs eyed them, nosing around them in the sand. The crows overhead also waited for a chance to swoop down. A slight drizzle had begun. Undaunted, the men hauled the net in. Women hung around in the background with raincoats and umbrellas, waiting to load the fish into ...

When we were taking a stroll down the Promenade beach and admiring the beautiful buildings, we stumbled on a heritage building in one of the lanes. An old bungalow now converted to a hotel for tourists. In its courtyard, there was this koi pond overgrown with lotus and other plants and I spent a lot of time, mesmerized, watching them glide in and around the lotus stems, swirling the water gracefully.The water was so clear and they were moving so fast that it looked like they were coloring the water around them, much like paint swirls in a glass of water. It made me wonder if they were in the water, or the water in them. The Koi carp are native to Japan. I found out about this interesting village , 'Harie' in Japan that is called ' the land of the living water.' This village has an enchanting relationship with water. It manages to have a flow of  natural spring water through an ingenious system called ' Kabata' where  pools of clear spring water are us...

Originally built as a durbar, Hindola Mahal is a unique representative of Malwa architecture. It seems to have borrowed elements from different architecture styles and come up with something entirely original.  Its sloping side walls give it a distinct look. The entire complex is made up of arches that let in a lot of light and wind. For me, the colors of this place characterizes Madhya Pradesh. If you look at the landscape, you will see earthy shades of pink,red, brown, ochre and burnt umber and these colors are captured in the monuments found in the ancient city of Mandu. While I sat sketching inside the deserted Mahal ( Monuments are wonderful to visit in the mornings when there are no tourists about)  a cheeky squirrel gave me a lot of trouble. Perhaps he was in want of company too and followed me about wherever I went. I finally had to perch myself awkwardly on a pedestal near one of the arches while the squirrel went around looking for me. He managed to spot me...

Summers were all about watermelon in Udupi. We - me and my sister, never felt the scorching heat that used to bother the adults around us. It was all about endless days of playing, running wild and whiling away time. We would strip down to our undies and be duly handed slices of  cold watermelon to eat. We would polish them off slowly. The juice trickled down our chins and stained our drawers, but we ate it with abandon. That's my sister spitting out the seeds like a pro : D It was also that time of my childhood which must have been a trial for my parents, now that I think of it. You know the time,  when your  milk teeth are falling out, and you are increasingly difficult, annoying and doing all the socially inappropriate things that are hilarious in retrospect, but not so funny, especially to one's parents at the time. The Dennis the menace years, I would call them :) So go on and find yourself a slice of nostalgia this summer and let's say cheers to those good old...

Pencil Sketch - King Edward VII This statue of Edward VII in Cubbon Park lies forgotten among many other beautiful works of art in Bangalore. I see a homeless man sleeping under its pedestal, in what little shade it offers from the sun. The marble statue bears the summer heat with composure. I love this statue because of the intricate work on the robes - It's hard to believe they're made of marble, because they capture fluid movement in the folds and creases. This work was commissioned to Leonard Jennings, a British Sculptor, who has executed commissioned works in Kolkata, Patna, Delhi and Mumbai. Every Sunday, Edward VII looks on as a bunch of committed artists get here to do some serious studies in figure drawing and anatomy. Some are on time, some are laid back ( It's a Sunday, after all)  some don't turn up but no matter the size of the group, every Sunday, these artists make it a point to show up, do some figure studies and some of them even go home and de...

Waiting Women with crying babies and old men in little shorts wait patiently for their turn. The garish, brightly painted Anganwadi is brimming with people today.  A school bench is the makeshift waiting room for patients, while little ones play on in their own universe of tiny claypots and pans, beads and slates on the other side of the room. The doctor, in a plastic chair is attending to a drunk man who has a skin allergy. Old men and women, weighed down, bent double, sit on chairs and carpets waiting for the doctor and the nurse to attend to them. A young woman in her teens in a brightly patterned nightie pats her wailing baby to comfort him. This is a small village in Doddaballapura Taluk in the Bangalore rural district of Karnataka.   Every Thursday, People wait in line for the mobile health van. It is a small village and I am alarmed to see few youths. Where have they gone? Working in the farms? Yes, a few.  But most of them are off to Bangalore...

A part of the Bhojeshwar temple complex Just outside of Bhopal, there is a little known town called Bhojpur on the banks of river Betwa. My friend and I went on a visit on the way to Bhopal from Hoshangabad. We got down from the bus and took a shared auto to go to the Bhojeshwar temple, and a shared ride it was indeed! The driver was more than happy to accommodate more passengers so that  there were 10 of us, not to mention our suitcase and handbags, all in 1 auto! We were crammed together like sardines, in uncomfortable positions. When I first  caught sight of the Bhojeshwar temple, I was blown away! It is a sparse landscape that surrounds the temple, and the huge structure in contrast, really catches the eye.  It is an incomplete temple, with one of the largest Shiva lingas in the world. You could see it from a distance but if you were to go inside the structure, even if you were to crane your neck you would be able to see only the bottom of the large pedestal...

The beginning of summertime in Bangalore is a treat. The tabebuias are in full blossoms,  their delicate blooms falling down in a soft shower on the streets, kids are looking forward to their summer vacation and all the untold pleasure that it brings. Adults are more relaxed and willing to be wooed by the charm of the season. Even working in this season is a pleasure, all you need is a window to gaze out from time to time, to get into a good mood and feel motivated to work! Cubbon Park is at its best, offering perfect spots for family picnics and boxed lunches, nooks under trees to lie down in and while away time with a good book, or take a nap in the warm grass, hoping the ants won't crawl into your underpants!  I have seen many families, replete with grandparents and little kids get huge tiffin boxes full of mouthwatering biriyani. Puliogare, Chitranna, Sandwiches, Upma, Stuffed parathas,Pulau, Bisibelebath, Bhel, boiled eggs, need I go on? So go out and seize the ...

After a whirlwind trip to Pushkar in an extremely crowded local bus and being hoodwinked by a zealous auto rickshaw driver into a fool's errand to check a spot ( The deal, we came to know later, was to go on a camel ride for exorbitant rates. We refused....Ours was a shoestring budget - the kind of shoestring where you tie a knot and hang on for dear life!!), we were ready to go sightseeing in Ajmer. ( Do visit the Pushkar valley  - The route is breathtaking.) We visited the Ajmer Dargah at dusk.  The road to the Dargah is very crowded and filled with tourists, pilgrims, shop vendors and 'streetfood eaters'. Fairy lights twinkle overhead and  shine in children's festive clothes. The most unique shops are of the loban sellers -  I was astounded by the sheer variety of frankincense/ loban that are there. There were times when these shops looked more like a halwaii/ sweetshop   than those selling joss sticks and perfumed resins! I couldn't ma...

Sittilingi is a valley in Dharmapuri, Tamil Nadu.Everywhere you turn, you see  green-blue mountains and the valley is a vast bamboo grove. There are peacocks in the fields and trees and many birds, especially the small ones that make the most noise. It is lovely to be outdoors in the morning and late evening. Daytime is sweltering hot. The night sky is spectacular. I had the privilege of seeing the blood moon ( Total Lunar Eclipse) there and it was breathtaking. I hear from my friend that it was cut off from the outside world for a long time. It is a small hamlet with Malayalee / Malayvasi ( adivasi), Lambadi  and Dalit families.Twenty six years ago, two doctors -Regi and Lalitha started the Tribal Health Initiative in a small hut in Sittilingi and now it has turned into a full - fledged hospital. Its team  includes trained nurses who come from the local community and a world wide community of volunteers and well -wishers. The THI has also led initiatives su...

Maheshwar is an understated place. Maybe, I prefer it that way. After a disappointing visit to Ujjain, being pushed and pulled by people to have a quick glance ( barely) at the deity in the Mahakaleshwar temple, Maheshwar felt like an oasis, because there was space to explore at my pace. The whole Ahilya fort is charming to visit. Very peaceful and quaint. I especially liked Rani Ahilyabai Holkar's residence - one of the most elegant, simple, no-frills palaces I have ever visited. This was a sight that we saw in the courtyard of the Rajwada - A local woman had stepped out of her house in a beautiful yellow and green sari that made it a perfect composition for a painting. I find Maheshwar breathtaking - Definitely worth another visit ( or many more visits!). 

It has been so common for trains to arrive late in Hoshangabad and Itarsi that it makes me nervous to see one that is actually on time. It is as though something is not right with the journey if the train is not late by at least three hours! Once, we even had to stay overnight in Itarsi because the train was late by over 10 hours. Anyway, late trains mean more time for sketching and observing people. Indian railway stations are full of interesting characters, each one unique and with a fascinating history, if you get to speak to them. I scouted for an ideal subject in the hot, dusty train station at Hoshangabad, sketching the man on the opposite platform taking a nap. Close to me, a man in uniform waved the green flag to a passing train that thundered through the station.   I didn’t pay much attention to him. But after a while I had to. It is common in India to be openly curious about something and hover around. And that is what he did. He hovered behind me while I tried...

Near the tower of victory inside Ashrafi Mahal, you can find ruins with beautiful stone carvings. Ashrafi mahal was originally built as a Madrassa and dates back to the time the Khilji Dynasty took over administration in the fortress city of Mandu. The Ashrafi   Mahal must have had wide spacious balconies, but   now there are no traces of that. The outer walls have crumbled and the structure is sky clad. You can witness a beautiful sunset if you come here just before closing time. The flight of stairs takes you through the complex and it has been built so that one can have a direct view of the Jama Masjid across the road. This monument, along with the Jama Masjid and Roopmati’s pavilion are close to the heart of the town with its market and small restaurants and sweetmeat shops. I can only imagine the splendour of this square in the old days, especially on a full moon day. Mandu has a mysteriousness I am yet to find in any other place.

Every evening, as I board a crowded BTMC bus to get back home I see weary, tired women mindlessly watching stories on Instagram, Whatsapp and Facebook. They hold on to handrails, squeeze between what little space is left in the overcrowded bus and stand in contorted positions to look at what other people ( often strangers) are doing with their life.Some catch up on episodes of their favorite series and soaps and comedy shows as our benign service providers auto play them one after the other. Bangalore has enough traffic to make sure you binge watch these episodes and if you find a seat throughout your long journey home, well jackpot! The visuals roll back endlessly without you having to do a thing. I get a disagreeable shiver down my back. What worries me is not the fact that they are constantly on their cellphones but that they are zoned out even when they are watching something, reading something, doing something. Our lives seem to be a distracted blur.  Sometimes, when I am...