The Signalman of Hoshangabad

It has been so common for trains to arrive late in Hoshangabad and Itarsi that it makes me nervous to see one that is actually on time. It is as though something is not right with the journey if the train is not late by at least three hours! Once, we even had to stay overnight in Itarsi because the train was late by over 10 hours. Anyway, late trains mean more time for sketching and observing people. Indian railway stations are full of interesting characters, each one unique and with a fascinating history, if you get to speak to them.

I scouted for an ideal subject in the hot, dusty train station at Hoshangabad, sketching the man on the opposite platform taking a nap. Close to me, a man in uniform waved the green flag to a passing train that thundered through the station.  I didn’t pay much attention to him. But after a while I had to. It is common in India to be openly curious about something and hover around. And that is what he did. He hovered behind me while I tried to ignore him and get on with my sketching. “Aap achcha bana rahe ho” He told me. I smiled and went back to my book. It is hard to shake off spectators once you show them you are friendly and it is alarming to find the crowd of spectators growing while all you want is to squirm and hide yourself and sketch in peace!  But the good thing is, people are always appreciative and tell you your work is wonderful even when it is not!

He asked me what medium I used. I was pleasantly surprised. Most people do not ask me this. I told him, watercolours and acrylics and asked him if he did art too. Haan, kabhi kabhi watercolours, mujhe kalakaaron ka kaam dekhna pasand hai. He told me he especially loved Van Gogh, Klimt and Edvard Munch’s paintings. He said his name was Dileep Varma and he was from Bihar. He had been transferred to Hoshangabad as a signalman only a year ago. He was well-informed about art and I learned of many folk art forms in Rajasthan and Bihar and it was wonderful to be able to carry out a conversation on art. I know of several Indian painting styles such as Pal shaili (A style that developed in West Bengal, Bangladesh and Bihar) Apbhrans shaili, Kisangadh shaili (Of Rajasthan) only because of Dileep Varma ji.

He showed me his favourite painting – Gustav Klimt’s the kiss on his mobile phone. When  I asked him if I could make his portrait sketch he said, Ek minute, and quickly took the green and red flag he had kept aside on the bench and laid it on his lap  and arranged it – haan, ab thik rahega and sat patiently waiting for me to finish my sketch!