Forgotten city of Ela - Revisiting Old Goa - the Se Cathedral

Se Cathedral illustration (Sé Catedral de Santa Catarina ) , Velha Goa ( Old Goa) 

I had listened in to this lovely talk by Tahir Noronha about Old Goa, tracing its history, from the ancient city of Govapuri, which then ceded its glory to another port that developed on the north bank of the Mandovi river - Ela. (You could listen to this on the facebook page - Soul.travelling - Forgotten City of Ela by Tahir Noronha, Tahir is an architect working with Charles Correa Foundation)

Ela was the first settlement on the site that has now grown into what we know of as 'Goa'. Ruled by local chieftains, the places were not unified. It was not until the Portuguese added bits of these territories to their 'empire' ( Estado da India) that the present Goa came into being.

Ela was known to the outside world, much before the rest of India. Owing to the trade coming in from the sea with the Arabs and the Chinese, it was  a highly coveted city - facing attacks from the Bahamani sultans, under whose rule it finally came under. When the Adilshahs took over, Afonso de Albuqurque's armada invaded Goa, and after what was a bitterly fought battle with the Bijapur sultanate, the Portuguese established their long rule until Goa's liberation in 1961.

Goa is decidedly different from mainland India. The local chieftains, the different sultanates - all brought with them their influences. Add to that 451 years of Portuguese rule, and you have a unique culture and a tradition of syncretism. Of course, it wasn't all smooth sailing. Goa's history is also one of brutality and looting in the name of power and religion.

What was the first thing the Portuguese did when they came into Goa? Sorted out the administration, strengthened the forts and being citizens of a country that was deeply catholic at that time, built churches.The Se cathedral ( It was elevated to the rank of a cathedral in 1533) was one such monument, built to commemorate a victory and dedicated to Saint Catherine - who became the patroness of Old Goa.

To be continued...